This autumn, numerous unique events and attractions will welcome those visiting Graz. Foodies, nature enthusiasts, and art lovers alike will find themselves captivated by this vibrant city on the River Mura, decorated with the rich colours of autumn. In late October, our visit coincided with two spectacular festivals that highlight Graz’s special charm: the Klanglicht Festival of Light and Sound and the Graz Truffle Festival. We also took the chance to visit the historic Eggenberg Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a story that left us enchanted.
Truffle Festival: Hikes, Tastings and Exquisite Dining
It was a delightful surprise to learn that truffles can be found just outside Graz, in the surrounding forests. To celebrate this exclusive delicacy, Graz has dedicated an entire festival to truffles, running from October 21 to November 3. The Graz Truffle Festival offers guided hikes in the Leechwald forest, a bustling Truffle Market in the city center, and specially crafted truffle menus in select local restaurants. For this reason, our visit to Graz started in the Leechwald forest, where we joined a truffle hunting tour.
Truffle Hunt in Leechwald Forest
Our truffle hunt began in Leechwald Forest, located conveniently close to the city. Led by our guide Marion Weissenbrunner, from Waldschule Graz, and her truffle-sniffing dogs Waquni and Ophelia, the two-hour “Truffle Hike” introduced us to the world of truffles.
Marion explained that truffle hunting in Graz started back in 2017 when city authorities asked her to see if there were any truffles in Leechwald. This led to the discovery of seven varieties of black truffle. Autumn’s prized burgundy truffle, however, is the standout for culinary use. White truffle hasn’t been found in the forests surrounding Graz yet.
Ophelia is a very cheerful and friendly Lagotto Romagnolo, who welcomed us with a wagging tail and kisses.
What we found in the Leechwald forest
Not all truffles are used in gastronomy. The dogs are trained to find just one type, but their delicate sense of smell finds all of them. The pleasant hike, bathed in the season’s brilliant colours, led us through the forest.
We followed the dogs in their quest – Waquni, a skilled 11-year-old spaniel, and young energetic Ophelia. The dogs are being trained to find truffles for over three years, beginning their journey at just 10 months old.
Marion told us that each year was different as far as the truffle hunt was concerned. She also pointed out that everything had to be returned to its original state in the forest. After the truffle was found, the hole had to be carefully covered to encourage new truffle growth.
The biggest truffle found so far weighed an impressive 300 grams. Even though this year was a bit less successful according to Marion, our group was thrilled when Waquni and Ophelia found some smaller pieces.
Moreover, these few hours spent in the forest with the dogs and new acquaintances from different parts of Europe was a beautiful experience in itself. After the walk, we returned to the starting point where the truffle tasting was organised. Our group was also happy to find out that the truffles we ‘found’ weighed 14 grams.
Truffle Market and Dining in Graz
After our forest adventure, we made our way back to the heart of Graz, to Paradeishof’s cozy courtyard, where the Truffle Market was in full swing. Austrian, Italian, and Croatian exhibitors showcased their truffle-based goods.
The visitors had the chance to taste a variety of cheese, cured meats, sauces, spreads, pasta, burgers, and even truffle-infused gin.
Adding to the atmosphere was a live performance by the band “Beat, Sax & Truffles”.
The festival’s culinary offerings also include special truffle-inspired menus at selected restaurants, where chefs have crafted dishes to highlight this exclusive ingredient. We dined at Mohrenwirt and Stainzerbauer, two traditional Graz restaurants participating in the festival.
Festival of taste in traditional restaurants of Graz
We have already mentioned the importance of sustainability in Graz, which we witnessed yet again. At Mohrenwirt, their menu includes the information about the locally-sourced ingredients.
We enjoyed a creamy polenta with Parmesan, followed by exquisite pasta in truffle foam, and finished with the amazing Austrian classic dessert Kaiserschmarrn.
At Stainzerbauer, near Graz Cathedral, we savored veal with truffles paired with a South Styrian Chardonnay.
The festival lasts until November 3, making it a perfect time to experience Graz’s culinary culture. All the details regarding the restaurants participating in this event can be found here. Graz prides with many excellent and diverse restaurants – more recommendations can be found here.
Klanglicht Festival: The Festival of Sound and Vision
For three nights, from October 24 to 26, the Klanglicht Festival transformed Graz into a magical landscape. At 17 different locations, the festival showcased 24 artistic installations under the theme “The World of Dreams,” with buildings, churches, and public spaces illuminated in striking, interactive displays by both Austrian and international artists.
The famous Uhrturm clock tower, an emblem of Graz, stood as a spectacular point which drew crowds from the entire city. Watch the video to see what the atmosphere was like.
One of Klanglicht’s interactive highlights was a light installation by the artist Philipp Artus at the theater courtyard, where visitors could create their own projections by adjusting the algorithm on a touch screen.
The festival organizers provided an online map, allowing us to navigate the installations with ease. While some locations offered free entry, others required tickets.
Notable displays included “Dreaming and Awakening” by the artist OchoReSotto on the Opera House facade, and “REM,” a projection by Gudrun Barenbrok, in the City Theater.
Inside the parish church, artist Luke Jerram’s “Museum of the Moon” exhibit impressed, while the cathedral lit up with projections by Laurenz Theinert, accompanied by a live organ performance by musicians Christian Iwan, Melissa Dermastia, and Wolfgang Mitterer.
Eggenberg Palace: A Journey Through History
Hidden in the morning mist and surrounded by autumn’s golden foliage, the baroque Eggenberg Palace gradually revealed itself to us as we were approaching it. Its story is both deep and fascinating. If you are planning to visit Graz, be sure to stop by this beautiful palace and the park surrounding it. The palace was listed as the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010.
This 17th-century masterpiece, built by Prince Hans Ulrich von Eggenberg, a faithful advisor to Ferdinand II, is a remarkable tribute to cosmic harmony. The concept and design of the palace were based on the universe and harmony. Astrology, nature, family portraits, moral values and messages, as well as the pastime, gambling, hunting, garden parties and romantic relationships were depicted on the walls and ceilings of the palace.
Planetarium Hall
Everything had to be in harmony. Therefore, the palace has four towers symbolising the four seasons, 24 baroque rooms representing the hours of the day, and 365 windows, one for each day of the year. Our guided tour began in the grand Planetarium Hall, once used for receiving guests.
From here, we explored 12 men’s and 12 women’s chambers, reflecting day and night, all lavishly adorned with intricate artwork, totalling around 500 paintings throughout the palace. The highlight was the main hall ceiling, illustrating the Sun God and the prince’s son at the same time, thus symbolising faith and hope in a better future. The same illustration also represents Sunday. Unfortunately, the son wasn’t able to continue the family legacy since he died young.
The history of Japan in Eggenberg Palace
We continued our tour of the chambers from the Planetarium Hall. Each chamber has its own unique story. One of them houses a rare Japanese folding screen depicting Toyotomi’s residence in 17th-century Osaka, adding an unexpected global perspective.
Though modern heating and electricity have never been installed, the palace remains a preserved gem, opened to the public in 1950. Visitors can also tour its coin collection, the Alte Galerie, and the archaeological museum. With its 400th anniversary approaching in 2025, the palace is currently undergoing restoration.
A Stroll Through Eggenberg’s Enchanting Park
A stroll through the beautiful park surrounding the palace is a memorable experience in itself. We were greeted by the beautiful autumn colours so it’s easy to see why Graz is a beloved city for visitors.
Our short trip introduced us to new experiences, beautiful scenery, and warm hospitality. Each experience was different, but they all complemented each other perfectly. We’ll certainly remember our autumn in Graz and are already looking forward to our next visit.
Jasminka Đaković, Željka Đaković
Photos: Putopis unless otherwise stated.
The trip was made in cooperation with Graz Tourism Office